having sampled two of ethan stowell’s culinary endeavours (union and anchovies & olives), my expectations of how to cook a wolf weren’t stellar. however, having failed twice to get a seat at this no reservations restaurant since its opening in 2007 made it all the more appetizing (i’ve affectionately termed this reoccurring theme in my life as the “something i can never have” syndrome). we arrived minutes before six, and by some act of god, not only did i score a vip parking spot out front, but we also managed to grab the last table in this 30-seater. there was a moment of trepidation when i put in my drink order and the waitress didn’t think they carried fernet, but thank god that confusion was soon rectified. we proceeded to order a mini-feast of small plates and entrees, including a tasty hamachi crudo, escalating to a mouth-watering hand-spun tagliatelle with escolar, and climaxing at the only duck confit i’ve ever loved. all in all, a gastronomic experience that greatly exceeded my expectations, and may have even reset my napa-vision™.