in 2009, icelandair started featuring a direct flight from seattle to iceland in only 7 hours. then throw in a couple of disruptive eruptions at eyjafjallajökull in the spring on 2010, and a perfect storm of discounted tour packages was born. the only thing i had known about iceland was sigur ros and i cant say it had ever been high on my “must-travel” list, but after catching some stellar acts at reykjavik calling in 2010, my mind was set on hitting up iceland airwaves (think european bumbershoot). when the opportunity of a $600 weekend jaunt (complete with flight and hotel!) presented itself, i immediately packed my bags and headed for the north pole. and did i forget to mention that the best part of airwaves is that it’s *even better* than bumbershoot? beyond the standard ticketed venues, a majority of the acts will also play for free 99 in small establishments across reykjavik. one such off-venue example was kaffibarinn, a neighbourhood bar where we rocked out to UK band clock opera while sipping on fernet and cokes (!). and while the band and drinks were cool as ice, the highlight of our evening was a chatty bearded icelander (think paul bunyon) whose style could give any williamsburg hipster a run for his money.